Scenic Drives

On the Trail of Dracula - Touring Romania With Vlad On the Mind

By Peter Starr


There are many aspects of Transylvania that make it a popular motorcycle tourist destination; the challenge of constantly twisting roads and sparse traffic being two. Another is the availability of local motorcycle tour guides.

As interesting as towns and architecture can be, it is the people I met who provided me with the variety of character that brings it all to life. Across from the Imparatul Romanilor hotel, Zed spotted a purple Harley parked in front of the Transylvania Tattoo Parlor. Curiosity, not being the sole domain of cats, led us to introduce ourselves and that led to more tales of motorcycle culture in Transylvania courtesy of Ovidiu, master tattoo artist and Harley partisan.

Corvinesti Castle Hunedoara

A one-day round trip from Sibiu to Hunedoara rewarded us with a visit
Gothic-style Corvinilor Castle built in the 14th century, where Dracula was imprisoned for crimes against the Turks.
By now the heat was having its effect, and it felt much better to ride.

So ride we did, south to Petrosani and then east along a very narrow, twisty, mountainous road to join up with the northbound Transalpina highway back toward Sibiu. The altitude gave us a much cooler ride. Although the Transalpina highway was declared open, it is far from finished. It is not so much of a problem for cars, but the unpaved, crossroad culverts can come as a surprise to a motorcyclist, particularly if one is appreciating the wonderful scenery when you should be looking forward.  Quite exhausted, we got back to Sibiu for our second night at the elegant Imparatul Romanilor hotel. 

Transfagarasan RomaniaOur final day of riding was
the 56-mile Transfagarasan
pass that links Transylvania
to Walachia and climbs to
almost 7000 feet before
passing under the mountain
peak through a half-mile tunnel
and down the other side.

The BBC television show Top Gear called it the best road in the world, and the featured section on the north side of the pass is quite wonderful and exciting by any standard.

I have no idea if Dracula
ever Vidraru Dam and Lake (Barajul Vidraru)made it over this pass.
But I am glad to say that I did,
and I enjoyed every rising foot of it. The down side of the
pass is longer and travels
along the Arges River and the
6.5-mile-long Vidraru Lake
through forests, and as such
lacks the sheer vistas of the
north slope. But it is an
engaging road that will keep
you amused and, depending
on skill level, challenged.

Just as I was wishing for somewhere to stop, we arrived at a watering hole without which I might have ridden right past the last of Dracula's castles and the one that firmly established Vlad the Impaler as Eastern Europe's most feared leader.  
Poenari Castle, considered to be the authentic Dracula's Castle, sits on top of a peak that is impossible to see if you are traveling south.
Poenari Fortress (Cetatea Poenari) The parking lot at the base leads to a 1480-step staircase to the castle.

After six days, almost 900 miles, plenty
of memories and Poenari behind us,
our six-day quest was almost over.
All that was left was the 100-mile ride
to return to Bucharest to spend one
more day enjoying the remarkable city
that is spearheading Romania's transition
from repression to freedom. So many roads to ride and so many reasons to put riding Romania on your bucket list.